A Vegas link or two

February 5th, 2010

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The Chicago Tribune has an article on the 10 most-asked traveler questions. An interesting one was about resort fees, their opinion being only the most shady having them. But most large Las Vegas resorts have them, even if you don’t intend to use the exercise equipment or access the Internet. Suck? Yep, but that’s how Vegas operates.

Speaking of, if you are a Vegas-phile like me, check out the Las Vegas Advisor Question of the Day. There is usually something interesting. Another good one is Stiffs and Georges, David McKee’s blog, with lots of information on the gaming and hospitality side of Vegas.

A trip north to the in-laws was in the cards for us last weekend. They live about 25 minutes southwest of Traverse City in an area filled with beautiful forests, lakes, hills, and trails. Alas, I didn’t spend much time enjoying the great outdoors, but Andrea and I made a trip into Traverse City to enjoy some of the city’s wonderful ambience.

The highlight of our brief trip was Amical, Andrea’s favorite restaurant. And, I suppose, mine too. They have one of the best appetizers ever, olive twists. On previous trips, I have gone to Amical just for the olive twists – they are worth a their own trip.

Our oh-so-brief stay included a visit to Jacques Torres, a chocolatier located conveniently next to Amical. We got a box of a dozen chocolates and some chocolate-covered Cheerios. No, I had never heard of them either. The chocolate chip cookies looked great, and I’m planning on having one on my next trip.

The last stop downtown was to the Traverse City visitor’s center on Union Street. Even though I have all the magazines and brochures I need about the area, I still like to stop. You never know what new and exciting things have popped up since the last visit. And it has a public bathroom – you can’t put a price on that.

As an aside, I visited one time and one of the volunteers working at the visitor’s center asked if I was the maestro. I don’t have any nicknames, so I said that no, I wasn’t the maestro. He took me around the corner and showed me a life-size cardboard cutout of… me. It was actually the conductor of the Traverse City Symphony Orchestra, Kevin Rhodes, but we look oddly similar.

As we were leaving town, we stopped at the Meijer to pick up a “Best of” Nick Jr. DVD for my daughter (I had remembered the portable DVD player, but forgot the DVDs, which doesn’t do a lot of good), though she ended up not needing them. The 3+ hour car rides went surprisingly well, with no meltdowns. This was due, in a big way, to Andrea’s purchase of Laura Berkner CDs. Elena really seems to like those. Anything to make the car ride easier is okay with me.

Under the category of “You can’t make this stuff up” is a Michael Jackson theme park:

Work is expected to begin this year on a 100-acre Michael Jackson entertainment complex in Gary, Ind., that would include a museum, performing arts center, hotel, golf course and theme park inspired by the pop singer’s Neverland Ranch.

I don’t care what you put there, I’m not stopping in Gary.

An article on The Chicago Tribune talked about modern architecture tours in Michigan. As a fan of architecture, I was glad to see a shout-out to this poor state.

When I work in Detroit (which hasn’t happened lately), I take my handy AIA: Detroit handbook to identify the various buildings throughout the city. Slightly geeky? Most definitely, but my natural curiosity requires me to know what those beautiful, though (in many cases) rotting, buildings are. What if I’m kidnapped and put inside an abandoned building, which could happen wandering through Detroit. I could help the police identify where I was. Knowledge is power, as G.I. Joe used to say.

My favorite of the golden oldies in Detroit is the Michigan Central Depot. Formerly a train station (until 1988) and the site of movie shootings such as The Transformers, the Depot sits quietly as it has for decades. There is the occasional talk of tearing it down, but I hope it stays – it was beautiful once, and if the Michigan economy ever turns around, it could be again.

Michigan Central Depot, Detroit

The current victim of the wrecking ball (figuratively speaking, since they don’t use balls anymore) is the Lafayette Building. If you look closely at the picture, you can see trees growing on top of the building. Talk about a rooftop garden.

Lafayette Building, Detroit

I took a training class in downtown Detroit, and I could see the Lafayette Building from the training room. It’s too bad they are tearing it down, partly because it is a sign that things were once better in Detroit, but also because there is no concrete plan for the site. A little park, perhaps? A shooting range? A place to send smoke signals to Canada asking for money?

Back to the Tribune article. There was a link to the Michigan Modern blog, which is one I’ll be following. The Michigan State Historic Preservation Office Blog is another such blog. The posts are not edge-of-your-seat exciting, but they are informative.

Thanks, Tribune! We need all the help we can get.

Bored with the ordinary southern California sites like Hollywood and Disneyland? Well have I got a tour for you: LA Gang Tours.

Passengers paying $65 a head Saturday signed waivers acknowledging they could be crime victims and put their fate in the hands of tattooed ex-gang members who say they have negotiated a cease-fire among rivals in the most violent gangland in America.

Having spent time in the safer areas of downtown Detroit, I have no pressing desire to see the edgier areas of decay and violence. Ditto for places filled with the potential danger of being killed in a cross fire. I’ll stick with Disneyland.

As I was reading in The New Zealand Herald about the Crown View Bed & Breakfast near Queenstown, New Zealand, which was named the best B&B in the South Pacific, I thought of the last B&B my wife and I stayed in Queenstown. This was our last stay in New Zealand before making three fantastic flights back to Michigan (Queenstown – Auckland, Auckland – Los Angeles, Los Angeles – Detroit), and we wanted someplace memorable. And we found it at the Hikurangi Lodge.

The Lodge was easy to find. We turned off Highway 6A and up a few very steep streets to be greeted by an incredible view of The Remarkables mountain range and Lake Wakatipu. Shirley and Barry were incredibly nice and accommodating – we had arrived late from a drive from Dunedin, and I had forgotten to write down the phone number before we left home to let them know we’d be late.

We slept in the Remarkables Room and couldn’t have asked for a better view. With the lake and mountain range in clear view, we had beautiful sunrises and sunset. We were even blessed with a few rainbows during our stay. It was without question the greatest view I’ve ever had from a hotel / B&B room.

Shirley made great breakfasts every morning and Barry was available to provide us information about the local area or book excursions for us. Whenever we would return to the Lodge from a hard day of relaxing, we always felt welcome, like we were visiting friends and not staying at a B&B.

We will not return to New Zealand for several more years, but when we do, the Hikurangi Lodge will definitely be on the list of places to stay.

Lincoln Brick Park

January 19th, 2010

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Ten new trails. That is one of my 2010 goals, and I wanted to start the year off right, so that first new (to me) trail was Lincoln Brick Park in Grand Ledge.

About twenty minutes from my mid-Michigan home, Lincoln Brick is the closest of the parks on my “not visited” list. There was an honest to goodness brick factory on the land that is now an Eaton County park, and a few of the crumbling buildings remain. If, for some reason, the manufacturing history of Eaton County isn’t your thing, there are also a playground, beach, and interpretive center, in addition to a few miles of trails.

Lincoln Brick park

I started out in the “plains” area behind the interpretive center, the trail forming a loop around the snowy grasslands before plunging into the tree line near the Grand River. That wasn’t an easy portion of the trail. A recent snow-melting warming followed by a ice-forming cooling meant a slippery trail. I’m going to show you what I mean mathematically:

Ice + trail near steep drop off + river = bad news.

But, I managed to stay dry and enjoy a bit of solitude, as no one else was there during my visit. Just me and the ducks, and they seems aggravated that I was bothering them by being in their park.

Lincoln Brick park

The area that is now the beach was once a quarry, and both are overlooked by the Tallman Trail. For whatever reason, no one enjoying the empty beach on the gray, twenty-something temperature day. Wimps.

Lincoln Brick park

Lincoln Brick was one of the shorter trail systems I’ve walked, to short for my tastes. But it kicked off my “10 trails in ’10 campaign” and I’m all about variety, so it was a Monday morning well spent.

Jamaican relaxation comes in many forms, variety being the spice of life and all that awesome philosophical stuff. Beaches don’t have a monopoly on “chill out” time – a leisurely float on the river is just as relaxing as some plot of sand or lounge chair. Sitting on a slowly-moving raft is just like laying on the beach, except you’re on a raft. In the shade. On a river. Okay, they’re nothing alike.

As I mentioned in a previous post, we were staying at FDR Pebbles near Falmouth. (As an aside, I cannot be the only one who looks at Falmouth and thinks “foul mouth.”) A taxi took us the short distance from our hotel to the launch dock for the hour-or-so long trip down the Martha Brae river on 30-foot bamboo rafts. And I don’t think there were any safety inspectors to check the river-worthiness of those vessels. It adds to the experience, trust me.

Jamaica, rafting the Martha Brae

Our river captain (we’ll call him Charles because I think that was his name) was sort-of famous. He showed us a poster promoting Martha Brae rafting, and there he was, smiling crazily with a couple of equally happy rafters behind him. In fact, you can see a picture of him too at the Jamaican Traditions web site – the picture of Captain Charles is at the bottom. But if you want to see him in all his current glory, here is in, cutting up a piece of fruit for us. If your raft captain didn’t give you fruit, well, it sucks for you.

Jamaica, rafting the Martha Brae

The trip isn’t all about relaxation – you can do some shopping, too. If you forgot to buy beer at the launch point, there are plenty of entrepreneurs along the way who will be happy to sell you more. And not only beer – you can also buy food or clothing or towels, or whatever they happen to have at the moment. They shout out at you (in a nice way) on the way by, and your captain will slow down to let you make a purchase. Apparently, Captain Charles was related to at least one of these vendors, so the Martha Brae experience is a family affair.

Jamaica, rafting the Martha Brae

If you’re lucky, you’ll get a singing captain like ours. He did a nice job. We didn’t get a singing gondolier in Venice, but we got one in Jamaica. At least somebody sang.

Jamaica, rafting the Martha Brae

We were sad to reach the end of our trip down the Martha Brae. Well, probably not Captain Charles, since he got to go back to the start again and make more money. Andrea and I were happy to see our taxi driver waiting to return us to our hotel. Otherwise, that would have been a long walk, especially in sandals. Had we wanted to hang out a little more, there was a bar, of course (try going anywhere in Jamaica without a bar nearby) to watch the raftsmen at work.

Jamaica, rafting the Martha Brae

A quick post to share a pair of links.

This morning, I found a great general travel site called Boarding Area. It contains travel-related articles and links to dozens of sites. It looks very interesting, and I have just started to crack the surface.

If you would like to win a $250 Best Western card, You Must Be Trippin has a way. Just describe your best travel adventure, or travel disaster, and you could win the coveted cash. I plan on trying for the moola myself.

In January of 2008, the wife, baby (less than a year old), and I, along with the in-laws, flew to Jamaica for a week in the sun. And to give you some perspective, here is a shot of my backyard a few days before we left:

Winter in Michigan

Our flight from Detroit to Montego Bay was uneventful. The temperature difference between Michigan and Jamaica was around sixty degrees. Is there any better feeling than getting off a plane on your first day of vacation? Okay, just getting off a plane these days is relief enough.

Arriving in a third-world airport is always an interesting experience. Ours was mixed. While en route, the flight attendant told us that we needed one immigration form per family. Easy enough. Oh, not so. Upon arriving, the customs agent informed us that we needed one immigration form per person (including Elena.) So if you are going to Jamaica, fill out one form for each person. If you are told differently, ignore them.

Luckily, our second encounter with a customs agent went much better. Seeing that we had a baby, she directed us to go through the immigration line used by flight crews instead of everyone else. It didn’t save us any time because we had to wait for the in-laws, who were not allowed to use the super-duper secret way, but we did manage to collect the luggage and speed our escape (I mean, exit) from the airport.

We next had to find the correct travel desk to pick up our shuttle to the resort. This is not as easy as it sounds, so if you have a similar arrangement, ask for help. There are at least a dozen different stations where locals wait for people heading to their respective resorts to check-in. The room is noisy and crowded with tourists – many trying valiantly to quickly reach an intoxicated state – as well as porters and assorted airport employees rushing about.

Montego Bay, Jamaica, Airport

We were guided to the shuttle bus that would drive us to our resort. After waiting fifteen minutes for a couple that wanted to get drinks from the bar at the cost of everyone else’s vacation time, we were driven along Highway 2000 to our home for the next week, FDR Pebbles.

Near Falmouth, 30 minutes from Montego Bay on Jamaica’s north coast, the biggest draw of Pebbles is the nanny provided to each family. Yes, a nanny. Ours, Karrione, was excellent, though we didn’t use her that much. We would typically use her for nap time and the occasional night out. Still, it was great to be able to get out for a few hours to relax without worrying about the baby wandering into the ocean. Because that would have been bad.

Before I go any further, I must say this – if you don’t have kids, don’t go to Pebbles. There is absolutely no point. If you have small children or babies, then you have a very good reason to go. In fact, I would recommend going to Pebbles if you a small child or two or eight. Otherwise, stay far, far away, especially single people unless you really want to experience what we parents go through when traveling with children. And you don’t want to do that.

We arrived at the resort with much relief and joy. The exterior of the lobby was crawling with beautiful bougainvillea. As an ordinary man, I didn’t know those purple flowers were bougainvillea, thinking instead they were some sort of blood-sucking alien species sent as advance scouts before an invasion, but my wife dutifully filled me in with the correct information. And yes, I had to use a spellchecker to spell bougainvillea correctly.

FDR Pebbles, Jamaica

Compared to other beach resorts at which I have stayed, FDR Pebbles was very small. At 96 rooms, it occupied a compact stretch of beach (you could crab-walk it, if you had the desire) and the buildings were very close to one another. The paths that wound through the resort were nearly overgrown with vegetation – palms, banana trees, and other plants that made you realize you weren’t at home.

FDR Pebbles, Jamaica

There were four places to eat on the resort: Sabbia, an Italian restaurant, Oceanside (a buffet), Beachfront Jamaican Grill, and Overproof, a Jamaican restaurant. We ate most of our meals at the buffet, though the first day, we were forced to eat at the Beachfront Grill because the buffet didn’t open until 6:30, and that was still an hour away. The jerk chicken was good, and the drink menus offered many selections. The cheeseburgers served at the grill were passable, but the corndogs, marshmallow and chocolate sandwiches, and grilled cheese sandwiches should be avoided.

Our room was okay with no outstanding features to put it above any of the others we’ve stayed in. It was one large cathedral-ceiling space with a half-wall to break it into two areas, one for sleeping and one for sitting. The sitting area had a couch, refrigerator, desk, and teeny tiny TV. Across the half-wall was the bedroom and bathroom. Things were very quiet in our room after the baby went to bed. As other parents can understand, we stepped lightly lest we face the wrath of a cranky baby when we needed sleep ourselves. The resort provided a Pack and Play, so that was something we didn’t have to drag along from the snowy North.

FDR Pebbles, Jamaica

The mini-bar was stocked with beer, Pepsi, cheese (tasty cheese, no less), and a few other items. A list was provided to be left for the staff so they could re-supply the fridge with the items you wanted. Of course, I had them bring Coke, because that’s how I roll. But you can request certain items and, like magic, they appear.

FDR Pebbles, Jamaica

The best part of the room was the deck. We had a second floor room, and though we overlooked the pool and the other buildings – no ocean view for us – it was pleasant to be outside. The deck furniture was not very comfortable, and since Andrea and I didn’t have much natural padding, we had to use towels.

FDR Pebbles, Jamaica

Karrione, the resort-provided nanny, worked from 9am to 4:40pm. She was also available for babysitting duties at night, and we took advantage of that a few times. I’ll write about those later. On the edge of your seat, aren’t you?

We stayed by the pool for the first half of the week. Strong winds made reading on the beach unpleasant, so we had to tough it out around the screaming kids patrolling the pool. They, however, were not nearly as loud and obnoxious as the resort’s cheerleader. I don’t know what her official title was, but her job was to yell into a microphone to get people to play musical chairs, play soccer, and generally demand that they have fun. My idea of having fun is beating senseless unnecessarily loud people with microphones, but I don’t think that was on the list of activities.

FDR Pebbles, Jamaica

Our trip back to the States was a bit annoying. The shuttle ride to the airport in Montego Bay went fine, but we had to leave the resort at 12:30 for a 3:30 flight. Otherwise, we would have had to pay for a cab – the shuttle was included. Getting through security was okay, though a little chaotic. The shops in the airport were way overpriced, even beyond normal airport pricing. The exception to this was alcohol – it was definitely worth it to buy our booze in the duty free shops instead of in stores outside the airport.

Oh, and the flight into Montego Bay from Detroit (which was the same plane that would fly back) was delayed for 45 minutes because there was a pothole in the runway. You have got to love that. We have security scares, they have potholes. But you know, I’ll take the potholes any day.